An inauspicious start to an earnest study of the Tigre. They look sad in the case, slightly wilted, scaring the Burgalesa. However: we had come this far determined to feast on Tigres, and we were not about to turn back now.

What came out of the kitchen several minutes later was in far better shape. The Tigres both had a light golden colour, and came with sherry in an attractive glass bottle. They were crispy on the outside, but inside rather meaty, and definitely light on the béchamel sauce that the Burgalesa insists is vital to a good Tigre. The taste was similar to canned mussels.

El Gallinero, Calle Francisco Grandmontagne, 20, 09007 Burgos

€1.70 ea.